Wat
Saket, popularly known as the Golden Mount or ‘Phu Khao Thong’, is a low hill
crowned with a gleaming gold chedi. Within, the 58-metre chedi houses a Buddha
relic and welcomes worshippers all year round. The temple also hosts an annual
temple fair in November, which lasts a week during Loy Krathong. The temple
grounds feature mature trees and typical Buddhist structures such as the main
chapel, ordination hall and library. Its origins can be traced back to the
Ayutthaya period (1350- 1767 AD) and it underwent major renovations during King
Rama I’s reign (1782-1809).
Built
on an artificial man-made hill, the Golden Mount is the temple’s most well-known
landmark and is a sacred pilgrimage site during the weeklong worshipping period
in November. To get to the top requires a climb up some 300 steps, which
encircle the chedi like a loosely coiled snake. The path is well-paved and the
climb relatively easy if you avoid going at midday or during peak summer
months. Before beginning the climb, you will find an unusual cemetery built
into the base of the Golden Mount. Covered in vines and overgrown trees, it
emits a rather spooky out-of-era vibe. Perhaps this is because in the late 18th
century, Wat Saket served as the capital's crematorium and the dumping ground
for some 60,000 plague victims. Approaching the top of the hill, you will be
welcomed by a wall of bells and panoramas of historic Bangkok.
Every
year, Wat Saket hosts an enormous temple fair during Loy Krathong, usually in
November, following an annual Buddha relic worshipping ceremony. During this
period, the golden chedi is draped in massive bright-red cloth, and a candlelit
procession up to the top marks the opening of the weeklong fun fair. This is a
rare opportunity to experience a large-scale temple fair like how it once was.
Coloured lanterns, decorative flags, food vendors as well as fairground games
and rides bring the place to life. Crowds of worshippers, families and
fair-goers pack the temple grounds from early evening to midnight for the
entire week. There’s hardly room to walk. If you go after sunset, the queue up
to the Golden Mount can begin as far as Rattanakosin Hotel. So plan to go as
early as possible.
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