Wat Suthat,
better known for the towering red Giant Swing that stands at its entrance, is
one of the oldest and most impressive temples in Bangkok. It features an
elegant chapel with sweeping roof, magnificent wall murals and exquisite
hand-carved teakwood door panels. The temple’s construction was commissioned by
King Rama I (1782-1809), to shelter the 13th Century bronze Buddha image
transported by boat from Sukhotai, but it was finally completed during King
Rama III’s reign (1824-51). Located in the Old City area, just east of the
Royal Field, you can easily combine a visit to Wat Suthat with Temple of the
Emerald Buddha, Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
Wat Suthat is perhaps more famous for the Giant Swing than its impressive
interior architecture, which is a must-see after the splendour of nearby Grand
Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. The cloistered courtyard, surrounding the main
chapel, boasts 156 Buddha images along the outer walls and four entry gates
individually hand-carved with intricate details. The wall frescoes inside the
main chapel, detailing the previous 24 incarnations of the Buddha, employed the
Western painting technique with perspective science, which is unique to this
temple. Lining the outer walls are Chinese stone sculptures and eight-tier
hexagonal pagodas, believed to have been shipped as ballast with the Chinese
trade junks.
Standing at 21.15 metres, between Wat Suthat and Bangkok City Hall, the Giant
Swing’s two towering red pillars and elaborately carved crossbar are
unmistakable from afar. After undergoing several renovations, the original
Giant Swing, dating from 1784, was replaced in 2004 with a new one crafted
entirely from golden teak. The construction of the new swing was a complex
process of hand-carving, paint undercoating and coating by master craftsmen and
involved numerous parties from civil engineers to the Forestry Department to
Brahmin priests.
In the past, during the Brahmin ‘thanksgiving’
ceremony celebrated every year after the main rice harvest in mid-December,
young men would ride the swing high in the air, suspended 24 metres from the
ground when in full swing, and try to grab a bag of silver coins with their
teeth. Some fairly severe injuries and a few deaths led to the dangerous swing
ceremony's discontinuation in 1932, but the swing continues to attract both
worshippers and tourists alike.